Getting the hot water back on
Hot water systems repair work in Adelaide starts with finding out what has actually failed. A heater can stop for reasons that cost very little to fix, or for reasons that mean it is time to replace it. The aim of a good repair visit is to tell those two apart quickly and honestly.
When you call, we pass your details to an independent plumber or gasfitter who works in your area. They will usually ask a few questions first, check the unit on site, then tell you what they found and what it will cost before they carry on.
Quick checks you can do safely
Before anyone comes out, a couple of simple checks can save a visit:
- Electric tank or heat pump: look at the switchboard. If the hot water circuit has tripped, reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off — that usually means a fault in the element or wiring.
- Gas unit: check the gas is on at the meter and that other gas appliances work. On a storage unit, look through the viewing window for the pilot flame. If it is out, relight it following the instructions printed on the unit.
- Continuous flow unit: check the power point it plugs into has power, and look for an error code on the controller. Write the code down; it helps the plumber.
- Any system: if water is coming from the tank body itself, turn off the cold water isolation valve to the heater and switch off its power or gas. A tank that leaks from the body cannot be repaired.
Anything beyond that — opening covers, testing electrical parts, touching gas components or valves — is work for a licensed person.
Faults we see quoted most often
No hot water from an electric tank. Usually a failed element, a failed thermostat, or both. Elements can burn out sooner where minerals build up in the tank, which is worth knowing in parts of Adelaide.
Pilot out or no ignition on gas. A worn thermocouple is a classic on older storage units. Continuous flow units more often show an ignition or flame-sensing fault with an error code.
Relief valve dripping or pouring. Valves wear, and many manufacturers suggest replacing them every few years. Constant flow can also mean the mains pressure is high and a pressure limiting valve is needed.
Water too hot or not hot enough at the shower. Often the tempering valve, which blends hot and cold so bathroom water stays at a safe temperature. These valves need replacing from time to time.
Heat pump running but water cool. Possible causes include a faulty fan, sensor or compressor, a blocked air path, or a backup element that has failed. Cold mornings make a weak heat pump more obvious.
Solar boost problems. A booster element or gas booster that has failed, a circulation pump or controller fault, or collectors that need attention.
Repair or replace: a fair way to decide
Ask for two numbers: the cost to repair, and the cost to replace with a sensible alternative. Then think about the unit's age and condition. A tank that is still sound and only a few years old is usually worth fixing. One that is well into its second decade, with signs of corrosion around the fittings, may fail again soon, and a repair is money that could go toward its replacement.
If replacement does make sense, remember that a like-for-like electric tank is not always allowed under South Australian rules. See our page on hot water system installations and the Adelaide price guide before you decide.
Keeping a system going longer
Some simple habits help. Lift the relief valve lever gently once or twice a year, as the manufacturer advises, to make sure it is not stuck. Have the anode on a storage tank checked at the interval the manual suggests. Keep the area around a heat pump clear so air can move freely. And if a gas unit starts to sound or smell different, turn it off and have it looked at rather than waiting for it to stop.